The curious thing about curious places is that curiosity is relative.
It is extraordinary how normal places feel when one is standing in the centre, yet how unusual they seemed only hours before when considering them as a point on a map, as a figment of some cartographer’s imagination.
Tbilisi, the capital of the Caucasian country of Georgia, is one such place. Viewed as a dot on the map and with a cautious eye to history, one would be forgiven for harbouring mixed feelings about visiting. It is a city that for over two thousand years has been fought over by Visigoths, Ottomans, Persians, Russians, oil companies, and a host of other would-be aggressors, and its future is not yet settled.
But it is resilient.
And now, wandering through its old streets under a late spring sun, its charm and charisma shine through.
Much of the city is a little dilapidated; much is beautifully restored. It is a city that has, since the Rose Revolution finally shook off its Soviet past in 2003, come of age and transformed itself into a vibrant and popular destination for visitors.
And herein lies the curiosity.
Sitting in North America pondering a small black dot on a map, considering the neighbourhood and recent history, Tbilisi would seem to be a curious choice for a vacation. But once here, and relaxed amid superb museums, fascinating architecture, wonderful restaurants, extraordinary music and exquisite wine bars, any notion of oddity disappears.
Georgia is the fastest-grown tourism destination in Europe, and it is not hard to see why. There are hotels to suit every budget and taste, an extraordinary array of attractions and above all, the warmth and genuine hospitality of the Georgian people.
It is wonderful to have watched the growth. My first visit here was in 2006 when there were only seven hotels. The most common car was a Lada, the city was patchy and a little dark. And while I was fascinated, it was only just emerging into the light and throwing off the yoke of the past 90 years.
But the development has been startling.
And for visitors, it is truly one of Europe’s, if not the world’s most interesting, (and yes, curious) destinations.
The city has many divisions and areas: the original Armenian, Jewish, European and Turkish quarters nestle up together; its history as a major point on the Silk Road can be seen in the ancient caravanserai, now restored to more contemporary markets, and a quick glance at the atlas.
The Old City, dating back two thousand years and more, is neatly tucked in between the castle and the Mktvari River. Old houses, perched precariously over the river, now mostly restored and rather noble again, punctuate the area; some are still residences, some now elegant restaurants and some are wonderfully unconventional art galleries and eccentric shops.
It is a fabulous area to walk through and be immersed in the multiethnic mosaic that is Tbilisi. It is a city where the Roman Catholic Church, the main synagogue, and the central mosque are all within a 10-minute walk of the imposing Orthodox Cathedral, and indeed a city where the mosque is shared today by both Sunni and Shia adherents.
It is a city of architectural contrasts between these restored buildings of the 18th century, the still-to-be restored masterpieces of the 19th century, and the splendid new constructions of the early 21st century. It is a magnificent jumble of people, shapes, sizes, and engaging street art.
Tbilisi is the most alive city I know. And when I am here, it is not curious in the slightest.
Globetrotting appears exclusively in Respect. For more Max, visit www.maxglobetrotter.com
