I lie awake at night from time to time, conjuring up new journeys and reliving past travels. Cities explored, countries discovered, time zones conquered, and often a list of destinations to be re-examined jostle through my mind as I try to fall asleep.
Of all the places I have visited, only a relative few stick out as completely and totally memorable, and often for reasons that I cannot easily determine.
Oman is one such country. It is a fabulous place to visit, and even now, after three trips, I am anxious to return.
It lies on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula, bordering Saudi Arabia’s vast Empty Quarter, the UAE, and Yemen. An interesting neighbourhood, and one that has shaped its past and future indelibly. Its border with the UAE is a fascinating mélange of enclaves and exclaves reflecting the complex familial structures that led to the evolution of The Emirates.
The seven Omani Emirs, being subordinate to Sultans, were each allowed to take their lands and separate from the Omani Sultanate in the mid-1960s. Some were fortunate to have oil, notably Abu Dhabi and Dubai; others, like Ras Al Khama and Ajman, were less financially endowed. But separation has been effective, and now only the eccentric border lines give a hint to their former relationships.
They do, however, make for a whimsical region to explore, and renting a car is really the best way to get to know this engrossing region.
Oman is huge, only slightly smaller than Poland. It is mostly dry, rugged and dramatic; in the south there is actually a spectacular rainforest that appears for three months each year when overnight, barren slopes turn to lush green hills and lakes appear from nowhere.
The stark contrast between the craggy mountains, the sudden greenery, and the vast empty desert is inspiring, and the ability to see this transformation remarkable.
Muscat, the country’s capital, merges seamlessly with the old centre of Mutrah. In the massive development phase of the early 21st century, the Sultan decreed that the architecture of the “New Oman” should reflect the regional history and culture rather than following the somewhat gaudy growth of the nearby Emirates. The result is outstanding. The new blends seamlessly with the old, and the country’s history melds with its future.
For tourists, Oman offers a wide variety of opportunity. From first-class resorts that now compete with the Caribbean for European sunseekers, to active climbing, off-roading, camel riding and camping vacations, there is something for everybody.
For myself, I love to drive. Renting a vehicle and heading out to explore is easy; driving is safe and the roads well maintained. Accommodation away from the major centers of the coast can be a little ordinary, but they will be clean and staying out in the country will allow you to dig a little deeper into the mysteries that are Oman.
It is a peaceful place. Described to me once as “the Switzerland of the Middle East” it is a place where diplomatic adversaries meet to talk, and a country that maintains level and considered relationships with all. Historically the Sultanate has had an oversized influence in the region. Certainly, as a major maritime power in the golden age of shipping, its authority spread as far south as Zanzibar and incorporated the Baluchi coastline of what is now Pakistan.
For visitors, this history culminates in a fine blend of past successes with a confident contemporary outlook. Great scenery, engaging history, excellent accommodation and a country of remarkable diversity really make thoughts of returning keep me awake at night.
Globetrotting appears exclusively in Respect. For more Max, visit www.maxglobetrotter.com
